Mario Testino: In The Picture @ JL Modern

DECEMBER 21 – JANUARY 25, 2025

“Perfection is not that great at the end of the day… it’s that moment that happens… that emotion. For me, when you capture that, you have it all.” – Mario Testino

For over four decades, Mario Testino has captivated the art world with photographs brimming with energy, fluidity, freedom, and sensuality, challenging conventional norms. With a refined understanding of fashion, culture, and the human form, Testino has worked with some of the greatest designers and models since the 1980s, creating images that transcend time and trends.

Born in 1954 in Lima, Peru, Testino grew up in a traditional Catholic household. His upbringing, steeped in formal conventions, informed his aesthetic perspective. Of his early influences, Testino fondly recalls his mother as a “dresser” who inspired his eye for style and detail. Originally studying law and economics, his path took a dramatic turn when he moved to London in 1976. Immersed in the city’s vibrant fashion and counterculture scene, Testino began his journey into photography, apprenticing under John Vickers and Paul Nugent. Early commissions with Vogue laid the foundation for his illustrious career.

Drawing inspiration from iconic photographers like Beaton, Avedon, and Parkinson, Testino developed a distinctive style that merges the sophistication of high fashion with the exuberance of South America. His portraits—loose, dynamic, and life-affirming—redefined traditional representations. The 1997 Vanity Fair photographs of Princess Diana and Madonna’s 1998 Ray of Light album cover exemplify his ability to reveal the essence of his subjects, earning him global acclaim.

Testino’s talent for showcasing emerging talent helped usher in the era of the ‘supermodel,’ elevating figures like Kate Moss, Amber Valletta, and Gisele Bündchen. His collaborations with designers such as Tom Ford during Gucci’s groundbreaking 1995 rebranding redefined the aesthetics of luxury fashion. Throughout the 1990s and beyond, Testino’s campaigns for brands like Burberry, Versace, and Chanel, and his editorials for leading magazines, cemented his status as a ‘super photographer.’

Testino’s work often challenges traditional boundaries of gender and desire, celebrating both masculinity and femininity with bold, saturated colors and dynamic compositions. His ability to capture intimate, authentic moments has made his photographs instantly recognizable. As Graydon Carter, former editor of Vanity Fair, remarked, “In less than a nanosecond—click—he manages to access something highly personal.”

In 2002, the National Portrait Gallery in London hosted a retrospective exhibition of Testino’s work, breaking attendance records. Additional solo exhibitions have been held at prestigious institutions worldwide, including the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston and the Shanghai Art Museum. With over 16 books on his photography, Testino’s influence extends far beyond the pages of magazines.

Today, Testino’s work focuses on preserving global traditions and exploring the cultural symbolism of native costumes. This continuity between his interest in fashion and cultural heritage underscores his ability to capture the genuine and the real. Reflecting on his career, Testino states, “Perfection is not that great at the end of the day… it’s that moment that happens… that emotion. For me, when you capture that, you have it all.”

Mario Testino: In The Picture invites audiences to explore the iconic and transformative work of a photographer who has dedicated his career to celebrating beauty, individuality, and the essence of humanity.